Election Fun

In the spirit of Super Tuesday...

There Are Days

There are days that totally take you by surprise. Not much may happen, but at the end of the day you feel fantastic. Today was similar. It was a busy day here in Muscat; I went to SQU to chip away some interviews, and there the day began. Sitting in the library, I was so nervous to approach the girls, all talking in their groups, why would they take the time to talk to me? I finally gathered enough guts to just sit down randomly at a table, and thank goodness, it worked out. I talked to one girl for an hour about my project. Jessica was talking to 2 other girls and once we were done, the girls took us to meet their friends. It so happens that today was graduation, so classes were cancelled in the afternoon.. and the library was closed. So we mosied down to the Women's Engineering Lab where we met handfuls of amazing women. They were so excited to help us out, they made sure they talked to each Jessica and me. We both received some stellar information! To add, they insisted on buying us lunch, showing us around campus, and taking us to their dorm room. As completely and amazingly generous they were, Jessica and I found it pretty funny since we just had a discussion about their opinions on the US... and it wasn't a shining report.

Afterwards, I met some girls at City Center for dinner. I met them at the Nizwa wedding, but since they live in Muscat, they decided to help me out with an interview... and for some fun time to hang out. The 3 sisters came along with their brother... and I had such a blast. The girls are so interesting- talk about strong women. And the brother is studying English so he can be a translator. Needless to say, he was very talkative. Again, Omani hospitality got the best of me, as they refused to let me pay... but I put up a good "Texan hospitality" fight. Every day I am amazed at the kindness here, and I will really miss hanging out with all my new friends. Oman is so far away- Now that there are only 11 days til my return, I've constantly had the discussion of whether I'll return. In my heart, I wish it to be so. But I know it is so difficult, financially, logistically, for us to visit each other. Its really a downer!

Thanks in Nizwa

I have a lot of things to be thankful for this year. But this year, without a doubt, family takes the cake. And yes, I do really love and appreciate you, my family. But I'm really thankful for the families that have made me feel so at home here in Oman. Being away from home has its difficulties, but I could not ask for better friends, who instantly were like family, here in Muscat and Nizwa.

Thanksgiving passed this year in Nizwa. I rejoined my Nizwa family, carting along my El Paso packaged tex-mex, planning on having a small Thanksgiving to myself and possibly cooking a small treat for my family. Admittedly, it was a strange Thanksgiving... but small and insignificant, it was not. The evening passed with my brother's surprise of dressing up as a pirate for me (partly because I gave them the Halloween costume set, partly because they knew my college's mascot is the Pirate-- hizzah!). My host mother, aunt, sister, and I cooked a half TexMex half Omani meal. Fajitas with goat meat isn't half bad! And 4 trips to the store to buy more bread-- since we ended up feeding 20 people. Oh, and I made Christmas cookies for dessert.

Quite a mix of holidays, granted. But when we sat down to eat, I didn't notice that I was sitting on the floor, Omani style, eating cold goat meat fajitas, or scraping the cookies off the plate since wax paper is no where to be found in the house.... I didn't notice that I was thousands of miles away, away from my family, away from my friends, in a Muslim country, with people who spoke a language completely different than mine. I didn't notice these things.

I noticed that I was surrounded by some of the best friends I could ask for. From my host grandmother- who constantly tells me to keep eating- from my host mom- who tries to explain everything to me, and when I don't understand, we just laugh- from my host uncle- who keeps trying to tell jokes in English- from my little host brothers and sisters- who are fascinated with making funny faces with me-and from my host brothers- who are constantly downloading movies for me to watch.... At that moment around the plastic "table" on the floor, I felt as close to home as I ever could be without the real thing. And when the entire family lifted their palms to pray together, I looked around at a wonderful group of people, said my "Marshall tradition thanks," and when my host mom looked at me, with her smile, asking if it was like home, I smiled back, and was almost the most thankful I've ever been in my life.

Mixin it Up- A Journey through Qatar, the UAE, and more of Oman

Going a little backwards... here are some photos from an Omani wedding, Dubai, and Doha:

Since the wedding party is a "women-only" affair (meaning they let loose and dont veil) this is the only picture I can really put up from the wedding. It was a HUGE deal. Hundreds of women dancing, eating, and celebrating. This is the stage where the bride enters... followed by the groom after all her pictures are taken.. and they are presented here.

I'm all dressed up for the wedding!

Our last night, we ventured into Madinat Jumeira... swank-ville. Taking loads of pictures, somehow talking ourselves onto a boat ride (which is exclusive to hotel guests only), and dancing in a Morrocan club made the night sparkly, tranquil, and magical.

At the Jumeira Public Beach. The water was so clear with a little view of iconic Dubai. Now if only all the Europeans would get out of the picture.

Just part of Dubai.. buildings with nothing in them yet, but still pretty buildings!

The gold souk in Dubai was quite an experience. The glamour, the random excessiveness, and everything you want if you have the money.... what I imagine Vegas is like. To make our experience RICHER than buying gold (okay, its an excuse to make us feel better) we talked to the shop keepers; we met people from Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iraq, Lebanon, and India. Now, thats what I call an international experience.

At Ski Dubai in the Mall of the Emirates. I once thought mall culture was an American thing. Man, I was wrong.

Doha: The Unfinished City. Or so we dubbed it. Nothing was done in this place... construction, construction, construction. But apparently its to be the next big thing, aka Dubai II.

Well, despite its obvious cute factor.. these baby camels from Doha have a story. Our group was taken around Doha, seeing what we could of things since everything is in the process of being built. Our stop at the camel souk (another, yes) turned out to be quite the tale... two words: camel milk. Never thought I'd try it... but we got a steaming, foamy bowl of it for us all to try. Ignoring all warnings, and trying to blot out the possible consequences from drinking milk straight from a strange camel--- oh, yea, we watched him milk the camel--- we tried to gulp as much of it as we could as not to be rude. Not that it was bad, it was just a lot of milk. But definitely love the stories that always occur around camels!

At Education City in Doha. Education City is a massive complex the royal family set up where they bring in the best universities to set up campuses. Saw Georgetown University: Qatar Campus in this building!

Sadly the station does not have a gift shop with tshirts. Because I would buy them out.

Al-Jazeera English. The barely 1 year-old station thats from Doha, Qatar. We toured the facilities, Arabic and Enlgish stations, and even were able to speak to the reporter of "Inside Iraq." Was fun for all to see the set since we've been watching the show all semester. And interesting to see the perspective of Al-Jazeera since its virtually unavailable in the US

A nice trip, but had a bummer moment

I'll tell you more about my trips out of the country when I upload pictures... just wait, I know you are anxious to hear about them! Amongst all the traveling, and the colds going around, it was really nice to get back to good ol' Muscat. Realizing I really prefer Oman (and the quieter towns) over the craziness of Dubai. The last few days I have been on a mad search for my personal journal. It disappeared somewhere between Doha and Abu Dhabi.... and I am terribly vexed by its loss. Every note, every feeling, every day I hae been in Oman was in the book. And its gone.... I don't even know how to begin finding ways to try and recompile things. Crud.

Today was our last day of "class," which really was just my oral Arabic review. I think I did pretty well considering I knew nothing when I arrived! Now, I am beginning my independent study project... I am very excited about it- looking at Omani's views on US primacy and how the role of US leaders should use that power. Inshaallah I will finish on time and with good results!

More Developments

Well, I've returned from Nizwa, and had a few days to do laundry and settle in Muscat. Coming back was difficult... the change in lifestyle and trying to get back into the original flow. The contrast between rural and metropolitan is so apparent. But, I have talked to my host family in Nizwa, and I am going to return for a week to stay with them and do some work for my independent project. (Which is rapidly approaching, eeeek!)

And now, I am in Doha, Qatar. The change is already such a culture shock. For the first time in 2 months, I've seen a skyscraper. And I don't have to cover... though we are all finding ourselves more comfortable if we do. Seeing tourists along side locals is quite a trip, but that is shocking in Oman too. I am able to walk down the busy street from the hotel to the internet cafe alone... something I definitely could not do in Nizwa, and is always a little awkward in Muscat.

Tomorrow we are going to Al-Jazeera to see a component of media in the Middle East... I cannot wait- what a special opportunity!

In shaa allah, in a week I will update you all on the trips planned for this week- more of Doha, Abu Dhabi, and the famed Dubai! The experiences SIT is providing is outstanding and the personal encounters I'm blessed to have are far beyond what I was anticipating. I already know that coming home will be a little stressful... the changes.. the misconceptions... the realization of things I learned and am learning here.... I already know this has changed many aspects of how I think about.... well... everything.

Nizwa... you stole my heart

I spent the last week in Nizwa, Oman.. living with a new family, who turned out to be more amazing than I could ever imagine. We spent the week learning Arabic, traveling the mountains, visiting schools, dressing up, getting henna, eating the "true" traditional Omani way, learning about Islam, and even slaughtering a goat. All truly amazing... I already know I am going back before I leave in December. I can't leave the loving people and laid back character of this interior city without a longer goodbye.

The view on Jebal Shams

Still on Jebel Shams... overlooking "the Grand Canyon of Oman"

At Nizwa Technical College

Getting henna again at my Nizwa home. They are fabulous!

My Nizwa mom and aunt dressed me up in traditional Omani clothing

Walking along the falaj system in Jebal Akdar

Sunset at a farm in Nizwa

My little brothers (and sister in the background) holding a baby goat at the farm

Clouds, glorious clouds

My sisters in Nizwa- adorable and so funny

The older brothers in Nizwa.. preparing chicken for the big bbq on my last night

My little sister.... and the goat we just slaughtered. If you want to see how they slaughter a goat... I've got a video. Of the entire thing. Its crazy. But you know you want to watch too.

A Bit of Eid and Sur Trip

Well, the computer crashed at the internet cafe during my uploading of pictures... so this was all I was able to upload from my trip to Sur...

The sunset at Aseer Desert Camp. We sat out on the sand dunes to watch the sun set around 5:30pm. The sky was so clear and the sands a surprising red.

Jessica, a fellow SIT student, and I at the beach party following Eid. Stayed at the beach all day, with the families cooking, everyone eating, and a bit of swimming.

(Left to right) Me, Nihad, my mother, Ifaat, and Ahlam on the first day of Eid.

In the desert in our 4x4. Annelle, our driver, and Erick with our car on the top of a sand dune. Usually we flew over these dunes (quite literally flying), but we stepped out to sink ourselves in the sand for once.

Sur is famous for its dhow boats. Caught this photo driving past the port one evening.

More camels... I know. We took a rest at a camel "farm" to release the air pressure in the 4x4s' tires so we could go dune bashing. Spent some up close and personal time with a lot of camels!

Met these women at a more "touristy" spot while our group at Omani coffee and dates at their home. I bought one of those lovely tapestries from them, and almost bought a burka mask... but I think I would have fulfilled their dreams... I was told a story about a British woman who looked like me, came to this area of the desert, converted to Islam, and lived here. Though they were very sweet, didn't want to give any false hopes... But I talked to them about Bedu lifestyle, eventually ending in a long conversation and demonstration about eyeliner. These women are so strong, hilarious, and bascially shatter all stereotypes about women who look the way they do. Go them, I say.

The Ups and Downs of Eid

Well, Eid began last Saturday in Oman. So on Friday, my sisters and I went to get our henna done. An aunt took us to a woman she knows and we got henna done at her house. I was able to watch 3 women get their feet and hands done before my turn. I only got the design on my hands... which was perfectly enough to amaze me. The daughter who did my henna was near my age and had some stellar talent. She took the henna and just began doodling all over my hands... almost like decorating a cake. Once she was finished, I had to sit there to let it dry and turn a light green... then I was able to flake it off. Henna is very orange at first, but I coated them in vaseline for the next 8 hours to make it turn a dark brown- so gorgeous! A little smelly, but the design was amazing.

Eid in a nutshell went somewhat like this...
- the night before, my sisters and I cleaned our room, did all the necessary beauty treatments to look stunning, and hung out with the family in the sitting room. Fatima decided she'd break out the moves. It was adorable.
- Visitors started to arrive at the house around 9:30am (btw, we've been up since 6). We used the formal sitting room, providing little candies and coffee for everyone. The nearer it became to lunchtime, the crowd of people had grown quite a bit. All the aunts, uncles, kids, and some friends (maybe a few strangers thrown in there) crowded around the floor mats we set up to eat Chicken Biryani and salad. Ice cream and sodas were tossed around- quite literally by some of the little ones- and hundreds of conversations. One of the aunts told me I needed to improve my begging skills, as it is tradition to receive money from family during Eid, and I needed to really beg for it. I felt totally awkward.
-THe afternoon was our quiet time.. most of us napped.. or at least those of us who could sleep through the kids being hooligans did. Parenting skills are quite different here... somedays a little stressful.
- Around 7, my family went to my mother's ex's house (also the family of my olders sister AND where another SIT student is) to have a BBQ. My SIT pal and I sat around for awhile watching the Action TV channel, and then I went outside to meet some of the relatives. I sat with 2 girls around my age, talking about Oman, studies, and just randomness. Was really nice to have such good conversations while eating kebabs with potatoes and soup.
-Well, it was good anyway until.... I developed a terrible reaction. I spent the next 2 days of Eid in bed.
-And the clinic had its own set of funness. Getting dropped off alone at the front desk. Couldn't understand the doctor's Indian accent. I just wanted to say "Just FIX me!!".. but instead we reverted to him writing down what he was trying to say. I finally got to a bed, and for the first time in my life, had to have an IV line. All that, with the fear of air bubbles in the tube, and the fact that a fly had decided I was so depressing that it would fly around me like I was a dead person... was retched. But, a couple hours later, I could at least eat and drink again, collapsing on my bed at home.

Thus, Eid ended.

Picture Update!

With my niece and nephew

In Salalah in the mountains

At the ruins of Khor Rhoi, the possible location of the palace of the Queen of Sheeba

In Mughsail, just outside of Salalah

Inside the Grand Mosque in Muscat

The main prayer room of the Grand Mosque

Lunch at a restaurant near my school. Yum!

Dinner in the traditional style in Salalah

My mother, sister, and Maria cooking rice for the mosque

Where are the camels?

Finally, a herd.

My neighborhood, Al-Hail

The infamous goat

A frankincense tree

Still learning... in case you were wondering

Arabic is simple..too simple. I'm used to Spanish with multiple past and present tenses, a billion forms to express doubt, and a long list of irregulars. But... Arabic. One past. One present. Attached a word on the front to make future. And very few irregulars. My brain can't process this simplicity. There must be a trick, right?

And yesterday I learned about oil in Oman. The numbers were fudged (for some good reasons) but getting a general idea about the process of drilling, complexities in drilling, and its role in Oman was, once again, eye-opening. Its unreal how drilling techniques should be improved, not only for environment's sake, but for the future of Oman. But I learned they are working on getting better technology to increase recovery factors... and efficiently.

On the non-academic front, today is Ahlam's birthday. We are again... going to City Center. She still has things to buy for Eid, and she wants to eat at the mall for her bday dinner. I doubt that means we will be there for less than 3 hours. I'm preparing my legs for the trip right now.

تشلسي Chelsea

Daily Life in Oman.... not too much different, really

This week was a fast one. Classes flew by and the weekend doubly so. Thursday afternoon Ahlam, Nihad, and I went to City Center to do MORE Eid shopping. They needed to buy clothes to wear in the mornings. Despite being there from 5pm to 1am... it was rather fun. We broke our fast at the food court, which was a really bizarre way to break it after having in the family setting for so long. Even more bizarre that I broke it with Subway (which PS is really cheap here). I think we looked at every shirt, dress, shoe, and bag in the entire mall. And you would think that I already would have seen it all, considering how oftern we go... but no. Ramadan is crazy. They put out new merchandise every day, and change the window decorations twice a day. I thought Christmas was intense!

Yesterday was my slow day. Really nice in contra to being on my feet the night before. Did all my laundry and finished my Ludlum book- though simple tasks, felt amazing. Dinner was once again delicious, and I got to share the time with the whole extended family.

Classes are half day today... just 3 hours of Arabic. But today, a longgggg 3 hours of Arabic. So I will head home via taxi soon... help cook some things for iftar, watch my sisters' favorite Dubai soap opera (which I understand nothing.. except the men are always plotting and the women are always crying... not too different from US soaps), and hang out with my family.

Yes, Oman loves to shop

Long day today- too long to be fasting for a large part of it . After class ended at 12:00, Kristin, Rebecca, and I got ourselves dropped off at City Center Shopping Center to chip away at our lists. We ended up shopping for Eid clothes, and I bought a lime green sundress that I can wear over pants and a beautiful silk blouse with metal details on the trim. So exciting, but I have to keep em in the closet for 2 weeks until the celebration. (For those of you who don't know, Eid Al' Fitr is the Feast of the breaking of Ramadan. Basically it is of importance like Christmas) The shop was called Monsoon and it is only in the Gulf. We also went to Carrefour where I bought a new housedress, things to bake cookies with, a dictionary, and a guidebook to Dubai. Kristin and I guided our taxi home successfully- and I engulfed myself in the guidebook. I am so EXCITED about going to Dubai in a month. I am already planning where I want to go, eat, swim, shop- EVERYTHING!

In a whirlwind, I caught a ride with my brothers to have iftar at Nashwa's. Since it was so sudden, I surprised Nashwa... I met her mother and sister when I first entered, and they couldn't have been nicer. We helped prepare a few last minute items for iftar: we took these small pancake-like bread pieces and half-filled them with cream, pinched it together, and drizzled honey all over it. Yea, Oman is a diabetic nightmare. Iftar, however, was nice, yet different from my family's. Had some amazing baked beans- felt like Texas food! So we all stuffed ourselves as we watched Omani soap operas that made fun of Omani culture.

Around 8 we all went to this big mall in the "American" part of Muscat. Hadn't been yet, but I wasn't impressed. And yes, this was #2 shopping trip of the day. It was really wild to see the damage the "unusual weather patterns" of earlier this year caused. The whole first floor was flooded, so it was still closed off and completely in shambles. Not too different from the empty lots around town with damage still laying in them. But did see some really beautiful head scarves. And tried to find some Arabic perfume/oils.... yet the kind I thought I wanted smelled horrible. And I came out of the shop with different oils all over my hands... I stank. Nashwa, her sisters, and I found it all more untolerable (as we all suffered the same perfume fate) when we were jammed in the car on the way home.

Every day here brings its own set of revelations. Some are more exciting than others, and I may have some cultural stress at times, and I cannot believe I am actually in the Gulf most of the time. But I can already tell that little things about the US will be hard to adjust to when I get home. For one- I'm already shocked when I see tourists in short sleeve shirts walking around town.... let alone a whole city of em. And lots of things I thought would be a huge adjustment- the longer clothes or abaya for example- are some of the things I love here. I mean, I can wear anything I want under the abaya... and I still look snazzy. Its amazing. And the housedresses, which we know would be considered mumus in the US, are the most comfortable, beautiful things. Funny how people think of these as such a cage for women... when really i think the men here have less freedom in dress. But hey, thats how ironic life is.

The Most Interesting Day BY FAR

Yesterday when I came home, I was reminded that it was the day of my sister's (Nihad) formal engagement. The guy's (Sa'id) family comes to propose a union with Nihad's family.. We spent 2 hours after iftar preparing the food, rearranging the furniture, and getting pretty/clean for our guests.

All of the aunts I've met came over- as they are sisters of my host mother. They are so sweet and it is always fun to talk to them. Ahlam, Nihad, Ifaat, the kids, and I waited in our bedroom until we were called on. The men and women are separated in two rooms. The men of Sa'id's family were talking to my host father/grandfather/brothers about technicalities of the proposal in the formal sitting room. The women all sat in the foyer which we filled with couches. After they all ate some food, we were summoned to be introduced to the aunts and mother of Sa'id. Walked around the room, kissing the 4 aunts and mom of the groom on the cheeks and swapping "hello's" and "how are you's" in Arabic. Sa'id's mother was a much older, Zanzibari woman who held my hand for what felt like forever and was impressed at me trying to respond to her in a very limited Arabic. Ahlam later told me we probably shared the same level of Arabic, because she seemed to only really know Swahili. They all conversed for a bit longer and I didn't feel so out of place since Fatima sat on my lap and distracted me from all the Swahili I didn't understand by ordering me to sing Barney.. and her new favorite, Twinkle Twinkle Little Star. But it was so sweet watching Nihad sit next to Sa'id's mother, holding her hand, becoming acquainted with her new family.

Once the family left, giving my family the 3 day waiting period to think the proposal over, we all dug into the huge spread of food we prepared. Ahlam and I joked that we had enough to feed a banquet for the Sultan. There was a ton of fruit- grapes, watermelon, plums, pineapple, melon- chicken cutlass, chicken wontons, kaymati (dough balls filled with honey), and the best Omani cheesecake ever. (The cake is credit to Nihad- who put together crackers, jello, pudding, pineapple, and cream cheese to make the most amazing cake)

I took on role as dishwasher, and helped put away the dozens of plates and platters. I did learn about the next wedding events from my father. The dowry presentation will take place sometime while I am here- and I cannot wait to see that. The money goes to pay for her veil as well as bags, shoes, etc. The malka, or technical wedding, will happen 10 days after I leave, and the wedding is on January 25th. I am so bummed about missing them, and my family thinks I should just extend my stay. haha

A Trying Day

Its almost been 1 month since I arrived in Oman...Today was a perfect example of some culture shock. Right on schedule, eh? Talk about feeling overwhelmed. Arabic today was quite trying.... we are starting to read more Arabic script, and today was full of worksheets all in Arabic. But the kicker... it was all in Standard Arabic and so far we've only learned colloquial Omani Arabic. GAH- Just when I started to get it, a nice curveball. The afternoon was a bit dull, with a professor from the water department of Sultan Qaboos University (SQU) to talk about water resources in Oman. Lots of numbers, blah. Got a hefty homework assignment from both my Arabic prof and our program director. Really, its not near as large as the normal SU load... but when I don't have privacy, quiet, or a desk to do any work.. it takes all my patience (and some good headphones with non-rap music) to do it all.

One plus of the reading (about field participation and notes for our research project approaching in November) was that it really got me out of my funk. Reading about the hardships of researchers in other exotic locations was reassuring that, yes, I can vent about these things. However, it did bring to life that I have a research project starting in November. Crud.

Took a break from working to break my fast (iftar)- had rolls, grapes, spring rolls, beans- all finger foods. Then tackled the pile of clothes I've allowed to form a huge mound in the corner of the room. Nervous about sending my clothes with the maid to the washer- I'm still missing 2 shirts from my first load from the first week I arrived. So.... a bucket will do! Lots of refilling the bucket, shimmy-shimmy in the water, rinsing, and taking up to the roof to hang on the line. Very cool view up there... the white of the houses (they aren't allowed to be much variation), the palm tree in the front of the house, and the bold moon. Looked like a postcard, a little hot, but nice to look out over the neighborhood.

Tried to introduce some music other than Snoop to my host brother. He was pretty unimpressed by country, acoustic, or... basically anything without a clubbin beat to it. Eh, I tried!

OH! And if any of you are ever planning on joining this 'different' country- bring your chocolate chips, baking soda, and measuring cups with you. I thought my list was rather simple when I went to Carrefour hypermart last night. They are impossible to find.

From Bites to Barney

This week has been a little slow, but not without its quirks and funny moments. Classes are getting hard for all us to sit through, as we are coffee deprived and the brunt of fasting is hitting us all. Even my family agrees, this halfway point is hard. Life at home has been a lot of hanging out, socializing, eating, and watching soap operas in Arabic (which I mostly watch to make fun of the soundtrack in my head). We've only had a few nights where we went out, because someone hit my brother in his car... everyone was fine, except the car door... which is now in the shop. We did get a chance to go the International Oman Exhibition Center to browse through boothes of Eid dresses, shoes, bags, and curtains. However, I did not find anything long enough.... stupid height genes.

The other inhibitor on excursions was the large bite I somehow picked up on the top of my foot. Its pretty beautiful- I think it was a spider bite.... but the doc clarified that it was most likely an infected mosquito bite or something. Still, I had an elephant foot for a few days. And I got to visit the injection room (creepy to see that sign on the door- I was like... woah.... I don't know if I want to go in there) and get some hard core drugs. One of the program teachers took me and we joked about how everything in Oman is fixed with an injection- You have a scratch? Have an injection! But it did get back to a normal size, and now I am waiting for it to totally disappear so I can once again wear shoes like a normal person.

A plus (at least a plus for my maternal side) is that I've gotten to spend a lot of time with the little ones. My little nephew, Sultan, has finally warmed up to me- I think it was the raspberries that won the cause. And Fatima is still glued to my side whenever they are over... which is a lot. Trying to expand her song knowledge past the first line of the "I Love You" Barney song... maybe we'll get to line two by the time I leave haha

Want to say, glad to hear from all y'all via this blog or facebook or email. Sooo makes my day to get your messages. Love you all, from family to friends to Delta sisters :)

And I thought Day 1 Couldn't Be Topped

So, day two in Salalah was even better than day 1. We:

• Went to the tomb of Bin Ali and saw a local graveyard. If I didn't know it was one, I wouldn't really have noticed anything but a bunch of stones. There were hardly any markers... still, the arrangement of 3 stones for women and 2 for men was apparent at a closer look.
• Met a fisherman who caught 4 tiger sharks. They smelled.
• Walked around the ruins of Khor Roi, or the House of the Queen of Sheeba. It was a little unmarked and hardly any protection for the remaining ruins... but the view of the river/lagoon/shoreline was breathtaking.
• Defied gravity. There is a point on a sloped road that when you put the car in neutral, it will roll UP the hill. Pretty funny.
• Saw umbrella trees and 400 year old trees that are native to Africa, that have somehow thrived in the desert like mountains.
• Ate a picnic lunch surrounded by waterfalls. The Dirbat Wadi was the most beautiful thing I have ever seen.... blue water falling all around lusch green. Lets just say I took a lot of photos.
• Stopped for our guide to pray at another part of the Dirbat Wadi. Had a zen moment sitting on the bank of the river with Kristin (from SIT) with green mountains shooting upwards on both sides, birds chirping, and a bright sky. I never wanted to leave.
• Pretended to be cliff divers (since we are forbidden) and watched for dolphins- and we found some!
• Ate dinner at the Crowne Plaza Hotel on the beach at sunset. Good food and a GREAT view
• Smoked some hookah at a cafe next to our hotel with all the students for Rebecca's 30th birthday. Shes fab, shes from Dallas, no more explanation necessary.

This morning, Kristin and I woke up at 8 to get to the souk one last time. I bought 2 new head scarves and a plethora of frankincense before we caught the plane home this afternoon. I can't believe how fantastic this weekend was- but I'm can't believe how much I missed my host family too. Darn it, I'm a sucker for my little niece... and my mom's cooking. Can't stay away!

The oasis, the desert, the beach

I've had the most amazing, beautiful, fantastic day. Salalah is hands down one of the most amazing cities I've ever been to visit. We arrived yesterday afternoon after a couple hours flight. Slept all the way, but got to see the green mountains around Salalah right before landing.



Last night we all walked around the souk (market) to buy traditional goods, spices, and a few house dresses. The whole group ate at a restaurant together... sitting in the Omani style on the floor with plastic to place the food on. Had chicken and rice- yum... I could eat it everyday (and almost do!) I haven't laughed that hard in a longggg time. Afteward, I took a taxi back with 2 other students- and the guy wouldnt let us pay! He told us to have a fun experience in Salalah and Muscat- and wouldn't allow us to give him the money. This, by the way, would NEVER happen in Muscat. Nor would the driver be so friendly... and shockingly, they speak better English in Salalah than in Muscat. Who'd have thought? The gals all hung out in our triple room at the Haffa House hotel... gossiping, debating, and listening to Dane Cook...and eating some snacks we bought at LuLu hypermarket during the day.



Woke up nice and early today, had breakfast (we aren't fasting, as we are traveling), and loaded up on our bus. We are all dedicated to the idea of being as touristy as possible. Such a release from worrying about trying to fit in. Our guide drove us up along the mountain side, stopping at this little side road, with an older mosque placed between the trees. Next to the mosque is a smaller building, which I learn inside, is the tomb of Job. Outside the building is a whole cut in the cement, revealing a spot of dirt... I stared at it for a good while, totally clueless. Our program director obviously saw my confusement and pointed out the heel print and the toe prints--- it was apparently the footprint of Job.... and it was 2 feet long. Job was, by the looks of his tomb, a giant. But it was cool to see his prayer room and the amazing scenery.



On the drive down the mountains, the most joyful thing happened. Totally touristy and just about as annoying as when people get excited as seeing a herd of cattle in Texas and gawk over it. But I cared not. In the road, was a flock/herd? of camels. And oh yes, we all got out of the bus and took a photo- and one next to the camel-crossing street sign. It was glorious.



But not as glorious as the wadi we stopped at next. Green, green, green. Cool breeze. Clear water. Rocks and bridges. The kid in my heart was dying to explore every cranny... but we were only able to stay for 20 minutes. We were to see the exact opposite setting, the desert-like mountains on the other side of Salalah, and we were behind schedule. Driving over the limestone mountains, zigzaggin along, we stopped to take only a few photos before we arrived at the beach.... I've never seen such a view. We gawked over the "blowhole" the ocean made on the rocky coastline and had our picnic lunch overlooking the green mountains jut up against the blue water.

Inspired by the tropical paradise we were seeing and not fully enjoying... as a group we all decided to go to the beach in the afternoon. We gathered our towels, donned the appropriate swimming clothing, and trodded across the soft, deep, white sand. The beach was totally empty except the 10 of us that decided to go. So we waded in the water, despite the strong waves and my deep fear of sharks/jellyfish, covered each other in sand, took hundreds of pictures, and enjoyed the solitude.

The day ended with a long dinner at a Chinese restaurant and a visit to the Salalah gold souk- was only a street, but was interesting to see what was being sold.

Salalah-lah-lah-lah

The 3 hours of Arabic a day I think are paying off! I already know about half of the alphabet by heart, and the second I learned today.. So I can start sounding out and reading almost anything in Arabic script. We are learning so many new vocabulary words a day, its hard to keep up and use them so I can remember them. But my family is helping me so much.

Today was our last day of class for the week- tomorrow morning we are flying to Salalah in the south of Oman. Will be interesting to read about the trade, see the House of the Queen of Shebah, and try to piece info about the historical conflicts there. Plus it will be cooler. Yipee!

However, it will be hard to leave my family for the weekend- they are so fun! Last night we went to the beach at a club here in Muscat. We broke fast sitting on the sand of the beach and watching the sun set... it felt so postcard-y, and was so gorgeous. Some other students went as well, and we all swam a bit, walked along the beach, enjoyed the darkness, and gathered some impressive seashells. Was coated in sand once we left, but every grain was worth it.

I'm a Barbie Girl

Last night was the second night of Ramadan and our house was quite a busy one. Two sisters of my mom came with their families- so a good 25 of us were huddle around the floor mat for dinner. Yup, we sit down on the ground to eat big meals together. Foods were oh my gosh delicious- chipati bread, chicken cutlass, apples, pears, grapes, sweet bananas, chicken biryani, green bananas in a spicy sauce, salad, garlic bread, milkshakes, and vimto. Her family is so nice, and it is fun to meet all of them again. After we totally stuffed ourselves- or at least felt unbelievably full- we all sat around and talked, watched tv, etc. Saw a bit of this cartoon show in Arabic- the characters look like Bedouin women- pretty funny to watch.

But watching tv soon turned into a brushing my hair session- which progressed into making me a Barbie and braiding my hair. I had some wicked half-cornrows until I slept on em. One of the girls talked me into telling a scary story and I eventually broke down. Told the ol' Bloody Finger story- quite hilarious since when I told the opening door part, someone actually opened the bedroom door. The kids flipped.

Today, after coming home from school (yup, school on a saturday) I helped my mom cook rice for 100 people! They take it to the mosque when the guys go to pray, since the mosque hands out free food during Ramadan. (1) Lots of ghee (2) Onions for a mob (3) Handfuls of spices: pepper, cardamom, cinnamon (4) Chicken Stock (5) Garlic and ginger (6) Buckets of water (7) Boil it all together like a soup (8) Add rice and let it cook!

I guess the hardest thing about Ramadan is not the fasting.... but the hijab. Since I have decided to fast, I have to wear the headscarf all the time- even at home. Comical for my US friends who havent seen me covered thus far. And my host family thinks I look so beautiful in it.. I have to admit, its kinda fun to experience wearing it full time. Makes me want to wear the whole shibang out in public just to see how people treat me in relation to how I normally dress.