A Trying Day

Its almost been 1 month since I arrived in Oman...Today was a perfect example of some culture shock. Right on schedule, eh? Talk about feeling overwhelmed. Arabic today was quite trying.... we are starting to read more Arabic script, and today was full of worksheets all in Arabic. But the kicker... it was all in Standard Arabic and so far we've only learned colloquial Omani Arabic. GAH- Just when I started to get it, a nice curveball. The afternoon was a bit dull, with a professor from the water department of Sultan Qaboos University (SQU) to talk about water resources in Oman. Lots of numbers, blah. Got a hefty homework assignment from both my Arabic prof and our program director. Really, its not near as large as the normal SU load... but when I don't have privacy, quiet, or a desk to do any work.. it takes all my patience (and some good headphones with non-rap music) to do it all.

One plus of the reading (about field participation and notes for our research project approaching in November) was that it really got me out of my funk. Reading about the hardships of researchers in other exotic locations was reassuring that, yes, I can vent about these things. However, it did bring to life that I have a research project starting in November. Crud.

Took a break from working to break my fast (iftar)- had rolls, grapes, spring rolls, beans- all finger foods. Then tackled the pile of clothes I've allowed to form a huge mound in the corner of the room. Nervous about sending my clothes with the maid to the washer- I'm still missing 2 shirts from my first load from the first week I arrived. So.... a bucket will do! Lots of refilling the bucket, shimmy-shimmy in the water, rinsing, and taking up to the roof to hang on the line. Very cool view up there... the white of the houses (they aren't allowed to be much variation), the palm tree in the front of the house, and the bold moon. Looked like a postcard, a little hot, but nice to look out over the neighborhood.

Tried to introduce some music other than Snoop to my host brother. He was pretty unimpressed by country, acoustic, or... basically anything without a clubbin beat to it. Eh, I tried!

OH! And if any of you are ever planning on joining this 'different' country- bring your chocolate chips, baking soda, and measuring cups with you. I thought my list was rather simple when I went to Carrefour hypermart last night. They are impossible to find.

From Bites to Barney

This week has been a little slow, but not without its quirks and funny moments. Classes are getting hard for all us to sit through, as we are coffee deprived and the brunt of fasting is hitting us all. Even my family agrees, this halfway point is hard. Life at home has been a lot of hanging out, socializing, eating, and watching soap operas in Arabic (which I mostly watch to make fun of the soundtrack in my head). We've only had a few nights where we went out, because someone hit my brother in his car... everyone was fine, except the car door... which is now in the shop. We did get a chance to go the International Oman Exhibition Center to browse through boothes of Eid dresses, shoes, bags, and curtains. However, I did not find anything long enough.... stupid height genes.

The other inhibitor on excursions was the large bite I somehow picked up on the top of my foot. Its pretty beautiful- I think it was a spider bite.... but the doc clarified that it was most likely an infected mosquito bite or something. Still, I had an elephant foot for a few days. And I got to visit the injection room (creepy to see that sign on the door- I was like... woah.... I don't know if I want to go in there) and get some hard core drugs. One of the program teachers took me and we joked about how everything in Oman is fixed with an injection- You have a scratch? Have an injection! But it did get back to a normal size, and now I am waiting for it to totally disappear so I can once again wear shoes like a normal person.

A plus (at least a plus for my maternal side) is that I've gotten to spend a lot of time with the little ones. My little nephew, Sultan, has finally warmed up to me- I think it was the raspberries that won the cause. And Fatima is still glued to my side whenever they are over... which is a lot. Trying to expand her song knowledge past the first line of the "I Love You" Barney song... maybe we'll get to line two by the time I leave haha

Want to say, glad to hear from all y'all via this blog or facebook or email. Sooo makes my day to get your messages. Love you all, from family to friends to Delta sisters :)

And I thought Day 1 Couldn't Be Topped

So, day two in Salalah was even better than day 1. We:

• Went to the tomb of Bin Ali and saw a local graveyard. If I didn't know it was one, I wouldn't really have noticed anything but a bunch of stones. There were hardly any markers... still, the arrangement of 3 stones for women and 2 for men was apparent at a closer look.
• Met a fisherman who caught 4 tiger sharks. They smelled.
• Walked around the ruins of Khor Roi, or the House of the Queen of Sheeba. It was a little unmarked and hardly any protection for the remaining ruins... but the view of the river/lagoon/shoreline was breathtaking.
• Defied gravity. There is a point on a sloped road that when you put the car in neutral, it will roll UP the hill. Pretty funny.
• Saw umbrella trees and 400 year old trees that are native to Africa, that have somehow thrived in the desert like mountains.
• Ate a picnic lunch surrounded by waterfalls. The Dirbat Wadi was the most beautiful thing I have ever seen.... blue water falling all around lusch green. Lets just say I took a lot of photos.
• Stopped for our guide to pray at another part of the Dirbat Wadi. Had a zen moment sitting on the bank of the river with Kristin (from SIT) with green mountains shooting upwards on both sides, birds chirping, and a bright sky. I never wanted to leave.
• Pretended to be cliff divers (since we are forbidden) and watched for dolphins- and we found some!
• Ate dinner at the Crowne Plaza Hotel on the beach at sunset. Good food and a GREAT view
• Smoked some hookah at a cafe next to our hotel with all the students for Rebecca's 30th birthday. Shes fab, shes from Dallas, no more explanation necessary.

This morning, Kristin and I woke up at 8 to get to the souk one last time. I bought 2 new head scarves and a plethora of frankincense before we caught the plane home this afternoon. I can't believe how fantastic this weekend was- but I'm can't believe how much I missed my host family too. Darn it, I'm a sucker for my little niece... and my mom's cooking. Can't stay away!

The oasis, the desert, the beach

I've had the most amazing, beautiful, fantastic day. Salalah is hands down one of the most amazing cities I've ever been to visit. We arrived yesterday afternoon after a couple hours flight. Slept all the way, but got to see the green mountains around Salalah right before landing.



Last night we all walked around the souk (market) to buy traditional goods, spices, and a few house dresses. The whole group ate at a restaurant together... sitting in the Omani style on the floor with plastic to place the food on. Had chicken and rice- yum... I could eat it everyday (and almost do!) I haven't laughed that hard in a longggg time. Afteward, I took a taxi back with 2 other students- and the guy wouldnt let us pay! He told us to have a fun experience in Salalah and Muscat- and wouldn't allow us to give him the money. This, by the way, would NEVER happen in Muscat. Nor would the driver be so friendly... and shockingly, they speak better English in Salalah than in Muscat. Who'd have thought? The gals all hung out in our triple room at the Haffa House hotel... gossiping, debating, and listening to Dane Cook...and eating some snacks we bought at LuLu hypermarket during the day.



Woke up nice and early today, had breakfast (we aren't fasting, as we are traveling), and loaded up on our bus. We are all dedicated to the idea of being as touristy as possible. Such a release from worrying about trying to fit in. Our guide drove us up along the mountain side, stopping at this little side road, with an older mosque placed between the trees. Next to the mosque is a smaller building, which I learn inside, is the tomb of Job. Outside the building is a whole cut in the cement, revealing a spot of dirt... I stared at it for a good while, totally clueless. Our program director obviously saw my confusement and pointed out the heel print and the toe prints--- it was apparently the footprint of Job.... and it was 2 feet long. Job was, by the looks of his tomb, a giant. But it was cool to see his prayer room and the amazing scenery.



On the drive down the mountains, the most joyful thing happened. Totally touristy and just about as annoying as when people get excited as seeing a herd of cattle in Texas and gawk over it. But I cared not. In the road, was a flock/herd? of camels. And oh yes, we all got out of the bus and took a photo- and one next to the camel-crossing street sign. It was glorious.



But not as glorious as the wadi we stopped at next. Green, green, green. Cool breeze. Clear water. Rocks and bridges. The kid in my heart was dying to explore every cranny... but we were only able to stay for 20 minutes. We were to see the exact opposite setting, the desert-like mountains on the other side of Salalah, and we were behind schedule. Driving over the limestone mountains, zigzaggin along, we stopped to take only a few photos before we arrived at the beach.... I've never seen such a view. We gawked over the "blowhole" the ocean made on the rocky coastline and had our picnic lunch overlooking the green mountains jut up against the blue water.

Inspired by the tropical paradise we were seeing and not fully enjoying... as a group we all decided to go to the beach in the afternoon. We gathered our towels, donned the appropriate swimming clothing, and trodded across the soft, deep, white sand. The beach was totally empty except the 10 of us that decided to go. So we waded in the water, despite the strong waves and my deep fear of sharks/jellyfish, covered each other in sand, took hundreds of pictures, and enjoyed the solitude.

The day ended with a long dinner at a Chinese restaurant and a visit to the Salalah gold souk- was only a street, but was interesting to see what was being sold.

Salalah-lah-lah-lah

The 3 hours of Arabic a day I think are paying off! I already know about half of the alphabet by heart, and the second I learned today.. So I can start sounding out and reading almost anything in Arabic script. We are learning so many new vocabulary words a day, its hard to keep up and use them so I can remember them. But my family is helping me so much.

Today was our last day of class for the week- tomorrow morning we are flying to Salalah in the south of Oman. Will be interesting to read about the trade, see the House of the Queen of Shebah, and try to piece info about the historical conflicts there. Plus it will be cooler. Yipee!

However, it will be hard to leave my family for the weekend- they are so fun! Last night we went to the beach at a club here in Muscat. We broke fast sitting on the sand of the beach and watching the sun set... it felt so postcard-y, and was so gorgeous. Some other students went as well, and we all swam a bit, walked along the beach, enjoyed the darkness, and gathered some impressive seashells. Was coated in sand once we left, but every grain was worth it.

I'm a Barbie Girl

Last night was the second night of Ramadan and our house was quite a busy one. Two sisters of my mom came with their families- so a good 25 of us were huddle around the floor mat for dinner. Yup, we sit down on the ground to eat big meals together. Foods were oh my gosh delicious- chipati bread, chicken cutlass, apples, pears, grapes, sweet bananas, chicken biryani, green bananas in a spicy sauce, salad, garlic bread, milkshakes, and vimto. Her family is so nice, and it is fun to meet all of them again. After we totally stuffed ourselves- or at least felt unbelievably full- we all sat around and talked, watched tv, etc. Saw a bit of this cartoon show in Arabic- the characters look like Bedouin women- pretty funny to watch.

But watching tv soon turned into a brushing my hair session- which progressed into making me a Barbie and braiding my hair. I had some wicked half-cornrows until I slept on em. One of the girls talked me into telling a scary story and I eventually broke down. Told the ol' Bloody Finger story- quite hilarious since when I told the opening door part, someone actually opened the bedroom door. The kids flipped.

Today, after coming home from school (yup, school on a saturday) I helped my mom cook rice for 100 people! They take it to the mosque when the guys go to pray, since the mosque hands out free food during Ramadan. (1) Lots of ghee (2) Onions for a mob (3) Handfuls of spices: pepper, cardamom, cinnamon (4) Chicken Stock (5) Garlic and ginger (6) Buckets of water (7) Boil it all together like a soup (8) Add rice and let it cook!

I guess the hardest thing about Ramadan is not the fasting.... but the hijab. Since I have decided to fast, I have to wear the headscarf all the time- even at home. Comical for my US friends who havent seen me covered thus far. And my host family thinks I look so beautiful in it.. I have to admit, its kinda fun to experience wearing it full time. Makes me want to wear the whole shibang out in public just to see how people treat me in relation to how I normally dress.

I'm in a Ramadan state of mind

Well I've gotten over being thirsty this morning... but I'm mega hungry. Doesn't help that we've been cooking all afternoon, does it?

Cannot wait til 7 to eat all the amazing things we've made!!!

Still in the 40s

Its still in the humid 40s here... 40C that is! Doesnt help either that the power went out in the office yesteday- so no AC for our afternoon class. But still an interesting one nonetheless. An Peace Core alum from the US came to talk to us about his experience in Oman when the Peace Core still had missions here. Very interesting since he came in the 70s after the 'blessed renaissance' began. And him talking about our role as ambassadors here really made me think... we are the only students in Oman studying from the US.. and the real ambassadors aren't really in touch with the people here... so we are truly getting a once in a lifetime, real view of what Oman is and how it is different. I'm so excited to share that- but I've only been here 2 weeks (ish) and I feel like I have enough information to fill a month's conversation!

Tomorrow morning we will probably start Ramadan. If not tomorrow, then the next day. Kinda funny that they dont know for sure- but it has to do with the moon- if we see the moon tonight, it begins! So that means som pretty rocking nights with some rough days. I'm going to just jump right in and fast right along with everyone else. Can't be so bad after the first few days, can it? So no water or food during the day. Luckily- everyone gets up at 4 am to have a quick meal, and the sun sets around 6:30 pm... so its really not that bad. Just no long hikes in the sun for me for the next month!

Going shopping with my sister!

I could tell you about...

I could tell you more about the interesting foods I'm eating. I could tell you about my Arabic lessons some more. And I could talk to you about how I like my host family. But I'd rather tell you about something else. Something... a bit more comical.

It began when I turned around from the water cooler in the kitchen. Now, let me remind you, I've seen some strange stuff- traveling with Sister Cities- and living in Texas gives me some credit. But the next thing I saw when I turned around to face the inside of the kitchen.. was not my mother peeling the bananas for a dish she was making. Nor was it my sister serving up a plate for her niece. Nooo, noo... What I saw was a head... of a lamb... in a bucket... of the rest of the lamb... staring at me... hairless...

If anything could be labeled a culture shock... that was the moment. I'm pretty sure I stood there with my mouth wide open for a good minute or so. As my father kept throwing more pieces- but I was fixated.. a whole head... I mean, I'm talking eyes and teeth and tongue and all... in a huge bucket.. on the floor... in Oman.

But I couldnt just ignore the fact that a lamb head was there... especially when my father continued to discuss with the maid how to best remove the teeth and cook the whole thing.. I finally got the gumption to tell them I've never seen something like that before, especially just laying in front of me. They laughed that little laugh that people use when they know you are so naiive and told me that my mother cooks meals for the ministers that are then delivered for their big dinners (apparently I have the best biryani rice maker as my host mom!) and the lamb was for them. But all I could seriously think, was THANK god. I do not have to eat that thing, nor do I have to talk my way around Not eating it.

Peace be with you

Peace be with you... I've said about a million times these last few days, and a million more to come. Of course, I say it in Arabic, but I dont know how to type it.



On Wednesday I got to meet my host family! After all of us waited around like little puppies waiting to be adopted, we finally all found our new homes. My mother and father came to pick me up, we went shopping for some pillows, ate some Indian food, and came home to meet the family. I cant even keep track of all of them... but there are some older brothers, who think they are regular gansters, a younger brother who wants to be just like them, grandparents, some older children who live outside the home, cousins, nephews, nieces, and a girl my age named Ahlam who I room with. Their family is from Zanzibar, so they mostly speak Swahili at home... so I'll hopefully come back with some Swahili AND Arabic. Really interesting to see all the family roles... not so sure where mine is yet.. as its only the second day, but its a little difficult to conform to the more woman does the cleaning and housework role. We'll see how thatll go haha



Yesterday they took me on a boating trip, departing from Mutrah and along the coast. A-MAZING. Really hot, but was nice to see the sea. We stopped in a little cove where the water was calm and a tropical green to eat lunch with the family and friends that came along. Talked to some of the aunts and uncles about the US... somehow a big discussion was Oprah! One woman was interested in what I thought about an episode of a Saudi woman being beaten.... and she was upset that Oprah talked about Muslim women being slaves. (Which of course is ridiculous) But it was very interesting to hear her opinion.



Tomorrow is my first day of classes (as the weekend ends on Friday) and I am excited to hear about other people's homestay experiences. And will be nice to learn some more Arabic to use in the home.



Glad to hear from all of y'all- makes being away from home so much easier! Mannn I miss being able to go to a restaurant or coffee shop by myself... sacrifices, sacrifices! haha



Some interesting meals of the week (for you mom ;) )

-Butter chicken and rice

-Chicken Biryani

-Chicken Kadai

-Beef liver, potato wedges

-Rice with salt fish, chicken, and rice

-Chicken schwarma

Umm, the ocean is on the wrong side

Things you might not have known about Oman that I have learned in the last day and a half:

1. They have these sticks.. which when you put in water, can then use to brush your teeth. Seriously, they are twigs to chew on. Also, this was my mystery item... which did in fact stump everyone in the group.

2. Im glad I didnt eat fish at lunch yesterday, because one guy got food poisoning from his. HA, see why I don't eat it?

3. Wrinkles are a bigggggg no no. You must look sharp. And smell good. At all times. Even after hiking around all day in the heat.

4. The toilets, of the toilets are so stressful. Lets just say it involves a sprayer (or a bucket if in an old place), your left hand, and some toilet paper which must be damn clean when you are done. But lets just say it explains why the left hand is such a big taboo.

5. THe left hand.. don't give anyone anything with it. Do not shake hands with it. Do not eat or drink with it. This is way more hard than you'd think.

6. The people are so very friendly. We went to the Sultan Qaboos University to tour today. We met the Dean of the Arts and Sciences, a few professors, and 3 women English literature majors. The girls were such a delight, so sweet! And the school is very beautiful..

7. Omani time is a relaxed time. Maybe even more so than Spanish time. So dont expect the buses to have schedules or lunch to be under 2 hours.

8. The hypermarts are a drastic change from yesterday's souk. Change smelly good spices and herbs for the US mall (but, in this one, everything has Arabic subtitles) and there was my evening at drop off #2.

9. Buses are hard to catch. And my gruop didn't catch one on our drop off trip. We walked a mile to the market... and then had a taxi driver take us to the wrong place on the way back... only to be noticed by the ocean appearing on the wrong side of the window. Luckily, we somehow figured it out.

10. The University has separate reading areas for men and women. Wonder if more work would get done at good ol SU if this was the case as well!

11. Omani coffee and dates are goooooooooooood

12. I am suddenly an alien. I am scarfless, and I am American, and I am a funny thing to stare at as you walk by. Boy, have I gotten some hilarious looks

annddddd

13. My group is so amazing. Total is at 15, and I think we all mesh pretty well. We all go to smaller, liberal arts type schools- we are all in some form of political science, history, or intl relations- and we are already looking out for each other. And heck, do we laugh a lot

Okay, I'm sweaty

Wow, wow, wow, wow, wow

Oman is so cool! But definitely not temperature wise- its almost 11 am here, and its so hot and humid. All kinds of sweaty- at least we have the shops and this internet cafe to stop in and relax in the air conditioning.

But lets start at the beginning....

I finally departed NY at JFK on Friday night on Emirates. Which is an amazing airline, hands down. The plane was huge and glamorous- twinkle star lights on the ceiling included. And was thoroughly entertained by the endless amounts of new release movies and tv shows on my own tv console! But I was still able to tear away from the Pirates 3 and Becoming Jane to sleep for a good 7ish hours. I amazed not only myself, but the group members next to me. Which, by the way, the group is amazing so far. An interesting mix and we are all so excited to be here. Stopping in Dubai was amazing, but difficult as in we couldn't go explore. Its an interesting mesh of people, and seemed less traditional than the Oman airport (where we were glad we changed into our more modest clothing before landing), over the top, and glistzy.

We arrived at midnight local time here in Muscat, so the impact of the heat and culture was somewhat hidden at first. We basically drove from the airport, unloaded our bags at the hotel- dragging them all up the 2 flights of stairs, showered, and collapsed. Got a few winks in before we all had to be up at 8 for breakfast and our first meeting. Breakfast wasn't anything too different- toast, eggs, tea, and Nescafe. But still good. Elizabeth, the program director, gave us some info and our mission this morning. Received my Oman cell phone and maps of all that sort. We are in the Mutrah section of Muscat, our hotel looking out over the Gulf of Oman. Our goal this morning is to explore the souk (or marketplace) here and buy a "mystery item" or under 5 rial to share with the group. You all know how much I love browsing the market! But to find the mystey item is seemingly more difficult (trying to not buy perfume or saffron, which are not so mystery) And our search for a working ATM has caused us to feel like we are walking through a sauna. Luckily we found an internet service "cafe" , which is another part of our goals, to stop and rest inside for an hour.

Its going to be a very full day- exploring on our own, meeting and talking about our experiences, and eating at one of the program directors' homes. Trying to pick up some Arabic; most everyone speaks English, but want to try-as its my purpose here anyway, right!? I can now at least say thank you!

And thus day one is almost half over, but the experience is but beginning!